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THE DOOR TO THE SOUTH AND THE BIG SOUTH
Now that Route National (RN7) has been improved, many visitors drive
its full length to Tuléar, either by hired car or by public transport.
It is a delightful journey, providing an excellent overview of the high
plateaux culture, as well as a spectacular scenery, especially the park
of Ranomafana and the most exotic spiny desert where cactus-like trees
wave their thorny fingers in the sky, where species of elephant bird shell
may still be found, and where the Mahafaly tribe erect their intringuing
and often entertaining aloalo stelae above the graves
.Here also are lovely beaches and coral reefs, including the country's
most popular National parks and Reserves. No wonder the south features
on almost all tour itineraries.
FROM ANTANANARIVO TO ANTSIRABE
All along this stretch of road you will see the Merina tombs, and can
watch the labour intensive cultivation of rice paddies.
About 15 km from Antananarivo look out for a huge, white replica of the
Rova across the paddy fields on the right. This is the president Ratsiraka's
palace; funded by North Korea when he briefly became ex-president and
fled to France he stripped it here.
ANTSIRABE
Antsirabe lies 170 km south of Antananarivo at 1,500 m. It was founded
in 1872 by Norwegian Missionnaries attracted by the cool climate and the
healing properties of the thermal springs. This is the second elegant
city after Antsiranana (Diégo)
WHAT TO SEE AND DO?
Antsirabe is famous for its thermal baths and the two lakes Andraikiba
and Tritritra, There are a few craft workers in Town, using a horse-drawn
calèche (Malagasy stage coach). They are fascinating. If you are
coming in Antsirabe on saturday, you have the opportunity to see the Market
day, but at the lake Andraikiba, there is an open Market of precious stones
and semi-precious stones, it is cheaper there than at Joseph's shop.
AMBOSITRA
Ambositra lies 90 km south of Antsirabe it is the capital of woodcarving.
Even the houses have ornately carved wooden balconies and shutters. There
is an abundant choice of carves figures and marquery, in several shops.Jean
et frères workshop carves exquisite scenes from Malagasy life.
The best woodcarving shop (and workshop) is chez Victor, opposite the
Grand Hotel.
RANOMAFANA NATIONAL PARK
Ranomafana lies northeast of Fianarantsoa, about 35 km but it takes about
2 hours to go there with muddly road.The name Ranomafana means "hot
water" which drew visitors in the colonial days and financed the
building of the once elegant Hotel Thermale de Ranomafana but nowadays
becomes a bit dirty. First you have the marvellous drive down, with the
dry highland vegetation giving way to greenery and flowers.
Then there are the views of the tumbling waters of the Namorona river,
often called the biggest waterfall in Madagascar.
There are 12 species of lemur in Ranomafana: Diademed, sifaka, red-bellied,
brown lemur, red-fronted lemur, black and white ruffed lemur and three
species of bamboo lemur. At night you can add mousse lemur, wolly lemur
(avahi), lepilemur, greater dwarf lemur, and even aye-aye. Then about
100 species with 36 endemic. And the reptiles, apart of the wildlife,
there is enough variety in the vegetation and scenery, and the last are
butterflies and insects. One good thing in Ranomafana also is the hotspring
swimming pool, which allows you to relax after the visit.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Centr'est (top).
Manja Hotel (medium).
FIANARANTSOA
Fianarantsoa is situated in the centre of the island 400 km south of
Antananarivo. Fianarantsoa is an ideal base from which to do a variety
of excursions. The upper Town, with its narrow winding streets and plethora
of churches, should be visited for wonderful views. The Sahambavy Tea
Estate is situated on one side of a very pretty valley beside Lake sahambavy,
25 km by road from Fianarantsoa on the way to Manakara. Fianarantsoa is
also famous for the wineries (Soavita, Lazan'ny Betsileo), on the way
to Ambalavao.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Tsara Guest House (Top)
Zoom Hotel (Top)
Hotel Sofia (Top)
MANANJARY AND MANAKARA
These two pleasant seaside towns have good communications with the rest
of Madagascar and are gaining in popularity among discerning Travellers,
especially now the super railway from Fianarantsoa to the Coast has been
rehabilitated. It is situated about 204 km north - east of Fianarantsoa.
Mananjary is a very nice small town and famous for its circumcision ceremony
which takes place every seven years.The southeast is much similiar to
the eastcoast for its landscape and vegetations, but the best place to
learn about the customs and the traditions which highly respected in these
regions. In Mananjary, it is forbiden to have a twin children, so they
have to get rid one them, because that is a taboo.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Jardin de la Mer
Sorafa Hotel
MANAKARA
Now that the railway has been privatised, this town at the end of the
line is bound to gain in popularity.Manakara lies 264 km east of Fianarantsoa
travelling by train from Fianarantsoa to Manakara is a good choice to
see the marvellous landscape in this region. A lot of tourists have nice
souvenirs during that trip.
Even there is a marvelous beach in Manakara, remember that you cannot
swim there if you have just eaten pork because it is taboo, and besides
the sea looks extremely rough.
The tribe in Manakara is called "Antemoro", whom are known for
the stars observation and different traditions and customs.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Ampilao Beach Hotel
Parthenay Club Bunglow
VOHIPENO
Vohipeno is situated some 45 km south of Manakara, this small town is
the center of the Antemoro tribe who came from Arabia about 600 years
ago, bringing the first script to Madagascar. Their Islamic history is
shown by their clothing (turban and fez as well as Arab - style robes)
It is worth to visit the "tranobe" where you can meet their
king, "Tranobe" is the famous house where the Antemoro used
to make ceremony, meeting and traditional celebration, you have to take
off your shoes when you enter in the "Tranobe" because it is
a holy place.
There are not good hotels in Vohipeno so the best is to sleep in Manakara
after the visit.
AMBALAVAO
Some 56 km southwest of Fianarantsoa is one popular town. The RN7 does
not pass through the attractive part of town, and I strongly urge people
to stop here for a few hours or 2 days if you want to visit Andringitra
National park.Nowhere else in Madagascar I have seen a town so resembling
a medieval European village as here.A worthwhile visit is to the silk
project at Ankazondandy, about 3 km south of Ambalavao.
Ambalavao is the original home of the famous Malagasy "Antemoro Paper".
This papyrus - type paper impregnated with dried flowers is sold throughout
the island as wall-hangings and lampshades.
Antemoro paper is traditionally made from the bark of the avoha tree from
the eastern forest, but sisal paste is now sometimes used.
After the bark is pounded and softened in water it is smoothed on to liner
trays to dry in the sun.The scenery beyond Ambalavao is marvellous. Huge
granite domes of rock dominate the grassy plains.The most striking one,
with twin rock towers, is called door to the south' by the pass of the
same name (Bishop's Hat)This dramatic landscape begs to be explored on
foot and now, with the opening of Andringitra National Park, you can do
just that.
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ANDRINGITRA MOUNTAINS
These spectacular granite peaks and domes where the PIC BOBY is, Madagascar
second highest mountain derives from a more prosaic history. PIC BOBY
is about 2 400m high.
ANDRINGITRA NATIONAL PARK
This park protects the flore and fauna around Madagascar's second highest
peak, PIC BOBY and is already delighting who relish the fantastic scenery,
good infrastructure, and lack of crowds.
The park is just stunning with waterfalls, rivers, flowers-filled valley,
sheer rock escarpments and lunar-like summits.
- CAMPING -
RANOHIRA AND ISALO NATIONAL PARK
Ranohira is a small town lies 97 km south of IHOSY and is the base for
visiting the popular ISALO National park. Isalo National Park is a combination
of rocks, cut by deep canyons and eroded into weird sharpes, rare endemic
plants and dry weather.
For botanists there is pachypodium rosulatum or elephant's foot - a bulbous
rock - clinging plant - and a native species of aloe.
For lemur lovers, there are is sifaka crown lemurs and ring-tail. Isalo
is fantastic! It is not just the abstract sculpuring and colors of the
eroded terrain or the sweeping panoramas which so impressed but also the
absolute and enveloping silence. The visit in Isalo is often devided in
3 sorts :
The monkey canyon,
the naural swimming pool, t
he place of the Queen with the window of Isalo,
but you can extend your visit for a week if you are willing to go the
portuguese's Grotte.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Relais de la Reine (Top)
Hotel ORCHIDEE (Medium)
FROM RANOHIRA TO TULEAR
It is around 244 km form Ranohira to Tuléar. Take a minimum of
four hours. After you pass the landscape scars and shanty town of the
sapphire mine, calls ILAKAKA, the rugged mountains give way to the grasslands,
and following they are many flowers - the large white crinum firmifolium
and the Madagascr periwinkle - but in the dry season it's quite monotonous.
Twenty-five kilometers northeast of Sakaraha is Zombitse and Vohibasia
National Park which is popular with birders.You will pass the first Mahafaly
tombs on the rigth, there are groups of tombs all the way into Tuléar,
wonderful tombs with aloalo.And a few baobabs before you come in Sakaraha.
About 17 km before you get to Tuléar, it is worth to stop for 2
hours at the Auberge du table to see different sort of the spiny trees
and some insects at Arboretum d'Antsokay. They also have bunglow if you
like to stay in a quiet place.
ZOMBITSE AND VOHIBASIA RESERVE
This pocket of forest (21 500 ha) straddling RN 7 some 25 km northeast
is very important for bird watchers. The forest are important example
of a boundary zone between the western and southern domains of vegetation
and so you have a high level of biodiversity.
Zombitse offers the chance to glimpse one of Madagascar's rarest endemics.
Apert's greenbul, wich is confined to this forest.
TULEAR
Tuléar lies southwest at the bottom of Madagascar, around 950
km from Antananarivo (capital).There are four good reasons to visit Toléar
: the rich marine life with excellent snorkelling and diving, the Mahafaly
and Masikoro tombs and a Museum which put it all in context, the remarkable
sping bush in places north and south of town.The beaches north and south
of the town have fine white sand, and this whole area is opening up to
tourism.Beyond the beaches is an extensive coral reef.
Tuléar is also known for its famous night club (Zaza Club).
WHERE TO STAY ?
Hotel Paletivier (top)
Hotel Dera (medium)
BEACH RESORTS NORTH OF TULEAR
Ifaty offers sand, sea and snorkelling, and has several sets of beach
bungalows. The village lies only 27 north of Tulear, but the road is terrible,
so it can take as much as three hours by strong small car.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Nautilus (top)
Hotel vovotelo (Mangily)
BEACH RESORTS SOUTH TOLIARA
ANAKAO AND REGION
Anakao is a pretty little Vezo fishing village, with colourful boats
drawn on to the sands. It is the center for some excellent diving or snorkelling,
and trips to the small islands of Nosy ve and Nosy Satrana.
Anakao is accessible from Toliara via 50 km dirt road, or by boat. Most
tourists go by sea, either safari Vezo or another motorized boat. Attractive
though a pirogue trip may seem when you bargain with the fishermen, bear
in mind that there is almost always a very strong head wind. Three hour
trip can take up to nine hours
.WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel SAFARI VEZO (top)
Bunglows Chez CLOUIS (bottom)
ST AUGUSTINE'S BAY
St Augustine is full of natural wonders and history.This was the site
of an ill fated.The natural wonders include dramatic sand dunes, a cave
swimming pool, bottle trees, and some good birding.
GROTTE SARONDRANO AND SARONDRANO VILLAGE
Don't miss this lovely swimming hole. Under a rocky overhang it is a
deep pool of clear blue water.Grotte Sarodrano is a 4 km walk south from
La Mangrove hotel which is located on the tip of a peninsula. For a naturalists
the track leads up through spiny forest where you can find wild ring tailed
lemurs and Southern endemic birds.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Melody beach (medium)
Chez Andrea (bottom)
LAKE TSIMANAMPETSOTSA
This large, shallow soda lake, about 40 km south of Anakao, is a haven
for waterfowl, notably famingos, and other rare endemic birds. It is a
strict Nature Reserve and as such as is not normally accessible to tourists
although we organize short visit there with the local people from Beheloka.
BEHELOKA
35 km down the coast Anakao, this village is developing into a low-key
resort. A palm-thatched hotel, Relaise la canne à sucre. Beheloka
has a nice beach but you do not have a choice for the hotel and Restaurant.
ITAMPOLO
This small town, about 150 km south of Toliara. It has the most beautiful
beach in the south with pinkish-coloured sand. It also has the best surfing.
If you are on the way to Fort-Dauphin, it is worth to spend one or two
days in Itampolo.Where to stay ?
Hotel Sud-Sud (bottom)
BEZA MAHAFALY SPECIAL RESERVE
This reserve is model for the W.W.F.'s integrates conservation and development
efforts. It was established at the request of local people who volunteered
to give up using part of the forest.
This forest has four species of tenrec including the rare large eared
one , Echinops telfari, three species of carnivores including the fosa,
and lots of reptiles. About 90 species of birds have been recorded. Beza-Mahafaly
is 35 km of Betioky and 125 km from Tuléar, a very rough road.
To get there you need a 4 WD vehicle, a zebu cart, a strong pair of legs.
The name of the nearest town is Bezaha. A side trip to this town, which
lies east of the road to Betioky, is worth it if you have your own vehicle.
A road full of botanical and scenic wonder's and there are some good Mahafaly
tombs long the road. There is a hotsprings near the Hotel Teheza. During
the visit in Bezaha Mahafaly special reserve, be ready for camping. But
in Bezaha you can stay in the Hotel.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Teheza (bottom)
BETIOKY
Betioky is a half day by 4WD from Toliara. The first 70 km or so, but
worth it for the Mahafaly tombs alongside the road. In Betioky, the best
hotel is Chez Claudia, 1 km before the town, which is family-run with
good food. In town are the Mamyrano Annexe and the Hotel Mahafaly.
AMPANIHY
The name means "the place of bats". The weaving of mohair is
a thriving business here. It's worth a day'stay so you caan visit the
carpet "factory" and the biggest Baobab in Madagascar.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Relais d'Ampanihy (bottom)
Hotel Tahio (bottom)
FAUX CAO
Faux cap lies at the bottom of Madagascar, southwest of Fort-Dauphin;
south of Tsiombe. Faux cap is a small community; isolated from the outside
world not only by the difficult road, but wild seas and a treacherous
coral reef.The huge shifting sand-dunes are littered with fragments of
aepyornis shell. It is an extraordinary place which is worth making considerable
effort to visit.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Cactus (bottom)
AMBOVOMBE
This town is interesting as a center for sustainable development projects
over seen by the peace corps; involving the local people. With the end
in sight, most of the tourists prefer to push on to Fort-Dauphin, but
there are several hotels in Ambovombe.
WHERE TO STAY?
The Relais de Androy (bottom)
Hotel Oasis (bottom)
BERENTY PRIVATE RESERVE
This is the key of destination of most package tours. The combination
of tame lemurs, comfortable accommodation and the Tranquillity of forest
trails makes this the memoriable for many people. The danger is that Berenty
is already becoming overcrowded. The visit to the reserve costs a little
bit expensive for normal tourists Accomodation is full board only. Berenty
lies some 80 km to the west of Fort-dauphin (Taolagnaro).
The reserve is famous for its population ring-tail lemurs and Sifaka,
there are also brown lemurs, red-front brown lemurs, lepilemur white-footed
sportive lemur, verreaux Sifaka, and Grey mouse lemurs. Bird watching
is rewarding in Berenty. Nearly 100 species have been recorded. You are
likely to see several families unique to Madagascar, including the hook-billed
vanga, and two handsome species of coua - the crested coua and the giant
coua which have dramatic blue face-making. The cuckoo-like coucal is common,
as are grey-headed love birds and the beautiful paradise flycather with
its long tail feathers.
If you visit from mid-october to May you will see a variety of migrant
birds from southeast Africa: broad-billed roller, Malagasy lesser cuckoo
and lots of waders (sanderlings, greenshank, sandpiper, white-throated
plover).There are the reptiles, cameleons are somewhat drab-coloured and
sulky-looking crocodile.
ANDOHAHELA NATIONAL PARK
The reserve spans rainforest and spiny forest, and thus is of major importance
and interesting. A third component is the east and west transition forest
which is the last place the triangulated palm (Neodypsis decaryi) can
be found.These three distinct zones or "parcels" (meaning =
area of land), make Andohahela unique in its biodiversity.Andohahela is
situated about 45 km north of Fort-Dauphin (Taolagnaro)
TAOLAGNARO / FORT-DAUPHIN
The town lies at the bottom, southeast side of Madagascar, built on a
small peninsula, the town is borderd on three sides by beach and breakers
and backed by high green mountains which dwindle into spiny forest to
the west. One eye-catching feature of the bay are the shipwrecks. The
east of Taolagnaro has a beautiful beach, calls Saint Luce.
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotel Miramar (top)
Libanona Bungalows (medium)
Motel Gina (medium)
tours & prices
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